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WHERE IS DERUTA?

Situated just south of Perugia in Umbria, Italy, the small town of Deruta is famed worldwide for its bright blue-and-yellow-glazed pottery. The local clay was worked as far back as Etruscan and Roman times, but it was not until the introduction of the colourful Spanish glazes that the town's pottery became renowned. Deruta is crammed with shops and roadside stalls selling pottery; pieces of the best value are found at the workshop stores. Also of note is the Regional Ceramic Museum (Museo Regionale della Ceramica), which displays antique ceramics alongside the work of contemporary potters.

Umbria is a land of rolling hills, deep, wooded valleys, and fortified, art-filled hill towns crammed onto high summits. Perugia, Orvieto, Spoleto, Assisi, and Gubbio are fortified medieval cities, which, while presenting a military face to the world, were also the tramping ground of mystics and saints. There are important Etruscan remains in the museums, renaissance Madonnas in the churches, and lavish annual religious and secular festivals. However, Umbria is relatively uncrowded, completely unspoiled, and flourishing as one of the great cultural regions of central Italy. Come here for black truffles, thick green olive oil, and to savour the Umbrians' traditional culinary prowess with pork, sausages, salami, and game.